Belgian Beer Journeys: Westhoek — Coast and Madcap Brewers
Some of the breweries and places in the Museum happen to sit rather conveniently close together. So, if you fancy exploring a little Belgian beer culture for yourself, here is one way of joining a few of them up.
This isn't a tour or a fixed itinerary. It's simply a journey we've enjoyed and think works particularly well. Follow our order, change it around, linger somewhere you like or miss something out entirely. The Museum's associated Place and Brewery entries have more about the individual stops and can help with planning your visit.
BEST BY: Car ALLOW: A full day BEST DAY: Sunday
Sunday matters for this journey: the weekly English-language tour at De Dolle Brouwers is one of its highlights and currently takes place on Sunday afternoon.
Start at the Belgian coast
Begin in Koksijde and Sint-Idesbald, on the wide sandy beaches of Belgium's North Sea coast.
There's more here than seaside. Koksijde is also home to the remains of Ten Duinen, the medieval Cistercian Abbey of the Dunes. Its archaeological site and museum tell the story of a religious community that became an important landowner and shaped this part of West Flanders for centuries.
Allow some time simply to enjoy the coast too. This is, after all, supposed to be a day out.
Lunch at Sint-Idesbald
Before leaving Koksijde, head to the historic Ten Bogaerde estate and Brouwerij Sint-Idesbald.
The small brewing installation here is used to develop seasonal beers in collaboration with Brouwerij Huyghe, while the adjoining restaurant provides a particularly convenient lunch stop. You won't have much difficulty spotting the entrance from the road: an enormous red monk stands outside to welcome you. Once inside, there are further sculptures and artworks around the well-kept estate to explore.
Then get in the car. Things are about to become rather more eccentric.
De Dolle Brouwers, Esen
Allow roughly half an hour to reach De Dolle Brouwers in the village of Esen.
De Dolle took over an old brewery here in 1980 and has been producing beers including Oerbier, Arabier and Stille Nacht ever since. The brewery itself is gloriously idiosyncratic: old brewing equipment, hand-painted artwork, strange stories and a sense that nobody has ever felt an urgent need to make the place more conventional.
The English-language Sunday tour is the reason we've built this journey around Sunday. It is currently scheduled for 2pm; allow about an hour for the tour and some additional time for the Oerbar and shop. Beer, glasses and assorted De Dolle merchandise are available to take away.
Finish in Diksmuide
From Esen, it's a short drive to Diksmuide, a small historic town whose attractive centre hides an extraordinarily tangled past.
The town was devastated during the First World War and rebuilt afterwards. Take some time around the market square and imposing St Nicholas' Church, then wander through the surrounding cobbled streets and alongside the little waterways running through the centre.
Finally, walk the few minutes from the centre to Brouwerij Verstraete, home of Papegaei.
This isn't a conventional brewery visit: Adam Verstraete brews his beers as a guest brewer using the installations at Brouwerij Deca in Woesten. What you'll find in Diksmuide is his wonderfully characterful home base, with a small shop and, when open, a peaceful waterside terrace.
Have a Papegaei or the lighter Wesley, pick up some beer or a glass, and enjoy the surroundings. It makes a pleasingly gentle end to a day that began beside the North Sea.
Before you go
Check every venue before travelling. Opening days and hours can be limited or seasonal and may change, while brewery tours can operate only at particular times. This suggested journey works especially well on a Sunday because of the De Dolle tour, but always check directly with individual venues before setting off.